Surfing is a great activity at the boundary of the earth and sea.
There are places to sit in the surf zone. The indicators and chargers sit way outside, waiting for the sets. The rippers and butt wavers are often on the inside, catching every wave.
At beach breaks, the way sand settles on the bottom helps to determine the shape of the waves.
It is easiest to get to the outside of the surf zone if you can find a channel. It will take you into the swirling kelp and foam and right to the best waves.
Once outside, keep an eye out for dark shadows and heavy lines on the horizon. If you are not paying attention you will get sloshed. Storms and winds make far traveling swells.
A good skill to learn is the duck dive. It is also practiced by cormorants. Follow the flow of the energy. Can’t fight it, go under it!
Learning timing is of utmost importance. Go right up to it, spin, GO!!!!!
What is unavoidable is getting tossed. When the curtains close the show is over. Catch a breath and take it easy.
In the washing machine you get clean. A good nasal rinse and body massage does wonders! Now, figure out which way is up?!
Landing on the reefs, spiny creatures await you. Maybe I should have brought booties…
A nurse, some tequila and a pair of tweezers. Back in the water!
The first time I saw moving fins in the water, nervous waves shook me to the core. Now, I am more observant of their shape and behavior.
Well, a mast and a rusty hull, there’s a welcome sight to see in the water when you’re taking off on a wave! Luckily the huevos rancheros and warm power plant water make up for it! Bob Gove!!
The one we really don’t want to think about. The master boss of the seas, the big kahuna, mr. sharp teeth… Are we near the red triangle?
Warm currents from Peru bring flying fish to Northern California. El Niño baby Jesus surfs on a sunfish.
This is what I was waiting for. A crystalline tube of liquid spit.
The locals are wild and free. They are scarred and missing pieces of fin. They jump out the back of waves. Laughing laughing creatures.
That’s it. Hope you get a chance to say hello to the sea, the mother of all beings and origin of life on earth!
Mission Azul 
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