Back in the days of carefree nasal drip and santa ana winds I did not pay much attention to the science of waves. I did not understand the guys who dialed the surf forecasters in the morning, or who listened to buoy readings. My outlook was “Go!!!”.
Over the years my affection for the sea has grown, but the time I spend with her is less. Heres some reflections on the nature of waves:
Mission Azul 